A ROUTE TO THE PAST; FOLKLORE DESCRIBES DEVIL'S DEN CAVE;
NOW IT'S FOUND
BARBARA RUBEN
SPECIAL TO THE WASHINGTON POST
Thursday, August 12, 1999 ; Page M01
Growing up in the White Oak area
of Silver Spring in the 1950s, James Sorensen listened to
his uncle's tales of a mysterious tunnel burrowed between
the sides of a horseshoe-shaped bend in nearby Paint Branch
creek. He said the tunnel, called Devil's Den, had been
blasted through solid rock by a slave--whose owner wanted
to build a mill there--in exchange for his freedom.
During the Civil War, according
to the stories, it was used to hide horses. Devil's Den
also became part of local folklore about the Underground
Railroad.
The tunnel has been inaccessible
to the public since the Navy bought the property in 1945.
For many years, the land was part of the Naval Surface Warfare
Center and is now part of the Federal Research Center on
New Hampshire Avenue. Many assumed Devil's Den had been
blown to pieces as a sewer line was sliced into the banks
alongside Paint Branch in the 1960s.
Last November, however, a botanist
searching for rare plants stumbled across the tunnel instead.
"I came to a depression, and I thought
this is very, very curious," recalled John Parrish, the
Silver Spring botanist who found the tunnel during a trip
with the local environmental group Eyes of Paint Branch.
"All of a sudden it struck me that this was probably Devil's
Den and that I might be the first person to see the place
in 50 years."
Obscured by rocky culverts and layers
of crumbling leaves, the tunnel, about six feet high at
its tallest spot, stretches 35 feet. Several vulture feathers
cling to the moss-covered rock at the tunnel's entrance.
Inside, the mica walls shimmer.
For Sorensen, now an archaeologist
with the Maryland-National Capital Park and Planning Commission,
the discovery validated at least part of the oral history
handed down over generations in his family.
Sorensen and about 35 other archaeologists,
environmentalists and historians toured the site for the
first time in June. The site remains closed to the general
public.
"It's a very important site, particularly
because it's in the eastern part of the county, and a lot
of the history of the eastern county has gone the way of
the suburbs," Sorensen said. "To find something like this
preserved and to find that folklore has been affirmed is
rather interesting."
But piecing together the tunnel's
history and its significance has been filled with contradictions
and dead ends.
There is no evidence that a mill
was ever built near the tunnel, although other mills dotted
Paint Branch and other streams in the mid-1800s. At the
same time, the tunnel is constructed like other "mill races"
built at the time to channel rushing water from a stream
to power a mill. One-inch holes drilled into the stone show
that the tunnel was blasted out and was not a natural occurrence,
Sorensen said.
The county eventually will do an
engineering study to determine whether a mill was built,
Sorensen added, and will try to determine who owned the
property in the mid-1800s.
One of the earliest written accounts
of Devil's Den appeared in The Washington Star in 1914.
For 15 years in the early part of the century, J. Harry
Shannon trekked across the Washington area, writing about
his walks in a column called "With the Rambler."
"It is an uninviting looking place,"
he wrote. "The Devil's Den at one time was said to be a
popular resort for snakes, and it has every appearance now
of being able to afford them splendid accommodations."
Nonetheless, Shannon wriggled his
way through the tunnel and heard from his unnamed guides
the story of the slave who built the tunnel. They told him:
"The slave labored with a sledge, drill, gunpowder and fuse
for many months. Before the task was done, slavery in Maryland
was abolished, but the tunnel cutting man kept at his work
till the rock was drilled."
This account, however, contradicts
those by Sorensen's relatives, who said Sorensen's great-great-uncle
used the tunnel to hide horses from Union and Confederate
soldiers who wanted to requisition them for use in the Civil
War. It would also mean that the site could not have been
part of the Underground Railroad.
Historian Anthony Cohen, who has
documented Underground Railroad sites in Montgomery County
and written a booklet about his research, and who has also
walked an Underground Railroad route from Maryland to Canada,
said that it is unclear whether the tunnel had been part
of Underground Railroad.
"It makes sense in terms of a great
hiding place, a shelter. It's also near a water conveyance,
because fleeing slaves traveled along streams by day and
highways at night. But that's where we kind of drop off,"
said Cohen, who heads the Menare Foundation in Silver Spring.
The foundation takes its name from a password used by slaves
when seeking shelter at a house on the Underground Railroad.
Cohen said that a house on Shaw
Avenue, less than two miles from Devil's Den, had been used
in the Underground Railroad. In addition, there were early
Quaker settlements in the nearby Colesville area, which
have been associated with the Underground Railroad. He also
said the presence of an African American community, called
Stewartown, built after the Civil War and adjacent to what
is now the Federal Research Center, makes it likelier there
were sympathetic people who might have hidden runaway slaves
in the area.
"These were things based on local
legend, oral history and speculation that I was able over
time to confirm. The same might hold true for Devil's Den
someday," Cohen said.
The last known written reference
to the tunnel was in an issue of a neighborhood newsletter
called the Hillandaler in 1940, which talked of guided walks
for children back to the tunnel and a nearby swimming hole.
Gary Irby, who lived next to the
Naval Surface Warfare Center for 25 years and now lives
in Wheaton, also heard stories about Devil's Den. He and
his children combed the nearby woods for the tunnel but
never found any sign of it.
Then, several years ago, when the
family still lived in White Oak, an elderly African American
man rang Irby's doorbell. He told Irby that when he was
a boy he had played with descendents of the man who built
the tunnel.
"While the kids were always very
excited about looking for the tunnel, we never had any confirmation
it actually existed. This visit made it real to us," he
said.
For Roseanne Price, who wrote about
the tunnel for the newsletter Eyes of Paint Branch, making
her way through the passageway helped authenticate the stories.
"I really got the sense of what
it would take to make this tunnel, how much someone would
have wanted his freedom to lay his life on the line to blast
through the rock," she said. "Being inside it you think
about those who had gone before you."
Articles appear as they were
originally printed in The Washington Post and may not include
subsequent corrections.